Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Tutorial: How to Add a Zipper to a Crochet Pouch

I have been crocheting tons of pouches lately and I love lining them with a coordinating fabric and finishing them with a zipper.  I'm not an expert at sewing by any means, but this method works for me.  I use it every time and I am always happy with the results.  I hope you enjoy this tutorial!

In the pictures shown in this tutorial, I am lining the Lee Change Purse.  But, this method will work for any pouch...just adjust the fabric and zipper sizes.

Materials needed- for the fabric lining & zipper (if desired):

• 5" zipper
• Fabric- 2 pieces that are roughly 5" high by 6"wide


•Needle & thread
•Sewing machine (optional)
•a few ball head straight pins


Finished size:
• Lee Change Purse- 4" high by 5" wide

Making the Lining:

1. Cut out 2 pieces of fabric that are about 1/2-inch larger around than your pouch.





2. Lay one piece of the fabric, right side up, on your worktop.  Place the zipper, right side up, on top of the fabric, centered.





3. Sew along the top edge of the zipper.  Use a zipper foot if you can, it's so much easier than using a regular foot like I did.







4. Flip the fabric over and fold the zipper back, so that it is laying flat on the wrong side of the fabric.



5.  Now sew along this side.  You can sew along the same line you just made.  The right side of the fabric will look like this now.



6.  Lay your other piece of fabric right side up.  Then, place the zippered piece on it so that the right side of the zipper is facing up and is lined up along the top edge of the right side-facing fabric piece.


7.  Sew along the top edge of the zipper.



8. Again, flip open the fabric and sew along the zipper again.





After you sew, the inside of the fabric will look like this.



9.  Fold the fabric closed so that the zipper lays flat and secure it closed we a few pins along the zipper line.



10. Lay your pouch on top of the fabric.  Line the top of the pouch up with the zipper.  



11. Trace a line around the pouch using a pen or pencil.



12. Pin the fabric together.



13.  Sew just inside (maybe about 1/8" inside) the line you just traced on the fabric.  It does not have to be perfect so don't stress out about it.



14. Trim away the extra fabric.



15.  Remove your pins and see how the lining fits inside of your pouch.  If it seems too bulky/big, sew another line inside the one you sewed before and then trim away extra fabric again.  If it fits just right, then proceed on to attach it to your pouch.



16. Use a few pins to hold the lining to the pouch while you sew it in.  Use a needle and thread for this part.  You are going to hide your stitches in between the crochet and the fabric (where the wrong sides touch).  



Work right along the zipper line.  In the inside of the pouch, you will see the inside of your stitches along the zipper line.  On the outside of the pouch you will not see any stitches.


Go from the inside zipper line, out to under the row of slip stitches on the pouch.



When coming back the other way, go under the row of slip stitches, making sure the thread will be hidden when you pull tight, to the zipper line. 



Continue this around.  Make sure you pull each stitch tightly so that the lining is completely secured to the outer pouch.  When you have gone all the way around, secure the thread with a few small knots that are hidden under the crochet portion.  Cut the thread.  Remove the pins. And enjoy!  You did it :)


Here is what it looks all finished :) 






Skein and Hook Copyright © 2014

The pattern and photographs contained in this document are the property of Skein and Hook.  This pattern is available for personal use only.  This pattern may be printed for your personal use only.  You may not in any form copy, redistribute, sell, or represent this pattern or photos as your own.  

Please do not copy this post and claim it as your own.  Please do not republish photos from this post and claim them as your own.  

You are welcomed to sell the items that you make from this pattern- please just credit me as the designer with a link to this post.

Free Crochet Pattern: Lee Change Purse

I designed this pouch with a change purse in mind.  I was thinking about how my daughter will be going to first grade next school year and she will need a change purse to keep with her for buying lunch, etc...  It is sized to hold dollar bills that are folded in half and change.  That being said, there are many things you could use this little pouch for besides money.

Ive done this pouch in lots of different variations- all solid, 3 colors (using the pattern: color 1, color 2, color 3, color 2, color 1), and in five colors- sometimes ombre and sometimes using 5 colors the look nice together.  The possibilities are endless :)

Here is an ombre-ish example:

Here is the one shown in this tutorial:


Materials needed- for the crochet pouch:

• U.S. H- 5.00 MM crochet hook
• Worsted weight yarn- used here: Vanna's Choice
• Tapestry needle for sewing in the ends 

Materials needed- for the fabric lining & zipper (if desired):
• 5" zipper
• Fabric- 2 pieces that are roughly 5" high by 6"wide

•Needle & thread
•Sewing machine (optional)
•a few ball head straight pins

Abbreviations:
• ch= chain
• sc= single crochet
• BLO= back loop only
• FLO= front loop only
• sl st= slip stitch

Finished size:
• 4" high by 5" wide

Pouch:

Ch 22



Row 1: Working in the BLO, pick up a loop in 2nd ch and in each of next 4 ch (6 loops on hook), 


yo and through all loops on hook, 

ch 1 (this forms eye of star), 

*pick up a loop in the eye of last star (green arrow), pick up a loop through the back of last loop of previous star (yellow arrow), pick up a loop through same ch as last loop of previous star (red arrow), pick up a loop in each of next 2 ch (blue arrow and then white arrow) (6 loops on hook), 

yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, 
 

rep from * across, 

after 9 stars, you will begin working the FLO, which when you turn your work around to continue working becomes the BLO.  You will continue working as the pattern states above.  This star stitch will turn the corner for you so that you can continue working around the other side of the chain.  As pictured below, you will pick up a loop in the eye of last star (green arrow), pick up a loop through the back of last loop of previous star (yellow arrow), pick up a loop through same ch as last loop of previous star (red arrow), pick up a loop in each of next 2 ch (blue arrow and then white arrow) (6 loops on hook), 

yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1.  Now you will be working on the remaining chain loops, opposite the side that you were working before.




Join in 1st star stitch with sl st.  You will have made 18 stars total.


Row 2: Ch 1, *1 sc in the same as the join (top of star), 1 sc in eye of the same star st*, repeat from * to * across (36sc) , join to beginning ch 1 with sl st.  See image below- the arrows show you the places that you will sc.



Row 3: Join new color, loosely ch 2, 


pick up back loop of 2nd ch from hook, then pick up the front loop of the same ch, 

pick up loop in each of next 3 sc, 

yo and through all 6 loops, 

ch 1, 


*pick up a loop in eye of last star, pick up loop in back of last loop of star, pick up loop in same sc as last loop of star, pick up a loop in each of next 2 sc, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, rep from * across.  (The last loop that you pull up for the last star will be in the joining stitch from the previous round.)  Join in 1st star stitch with sl st.  You will have made 18 stars total.


Row 4: Ch 1, *1 sc in the same as the join (top of star), 1 sc in eye of the same star st*, repeat from * to * across (36sc) , join to beginning ch 1 with sl st.



Row 5: Join new color, loosely ch 2, pick up back loop of 2nd ch from hook, then pick up the front loop of the same ch, pick up loop in each of next 3 sc, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, *pick up a loop in eye of last star, pick up loop in back of last loop of star, pick up loop in same sc as last loop of star, pick up a loop in each of next 2 sc, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, rep from * across.  (The last loop that you pull up for the last star will be in the joining stitch from the previous round.)  Join in 1st star stitch with sl st.  You will have made 18 stars total.


Row 6: Ch 1, *1 sc in the same as the join (top of star), 1 sc in eye of the same star st*, repeat from * to * across (36sc) , join to beginning ch 1 with sl st.



Row 7: Join new color, loosely ch 2, pick up back loop of 2nd ch from hook, then pick up the front loop of the same ch, pick up loop in each of next 3 sc, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, *pick up a loop in eye of last star, pick up loop in back of last loop of star, pick up loop in same sc as last loop of star, pick up a loop in each of next 2 sc, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, rep from * across.  (The last loop that you pull up for the last star will be in the joining stitch from the previous round.)  Join in 1st star stitch with sl st.  You will have made 18 stars total.



Row 8: Ch 1, *1 sc in the same as the join (top of star), 1 sc in eye of the same star st*, repeat from * to * across (36sc) , join to beginning ch 1 with sl st.


Row 9: Join new color, loosely ch 2, pick up back loop of 2nd ch from hook, then pick up the front loop of the same ch, pick up loop in each of next 3 sc, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, *pick up a loop in eye of last star, pick up loop in back of last loop of star, pick up loop in same sc as last loop of star, pick up a loop in each of next 2 sc, yo and through all 6 loops, ch 1, rep from * across.  (The last loop that you pull up for the last star will be in the joining stitch from the previous round.)  Join in 1st star stitch with sl st.  You will have made 18 stars total.




Row 10: Ch 1, *1 sc in the same as the join (top of star), 1 sc in eye of the same star st*, repeat from * to * across (36sc) , join to beginning ch 1 with sl st.


Row 11:  Sl st in each stitch around, finish off with an invisible join.



To add a fabric lining and zipper to this pouch, please see my tutorial here.






Skein and Hook Copyright © 2014

The pattern and photographs contained in this document are the property of Skein and Hook.  This pattern is available for personal use only.  This pattern may be printed for your personal use only.  You may not in any form copy, redistribute, sell, or represent this pattern or photos as your own.  

Please do not copy this post and claim it as your own.  Please do not republish photos from this post and claim them as your own.  

You are welcomed to sell the items that you make from this pattern- please just credit me as the designer with a link to this post.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Tutorial: Dyeing yarn with Wilton Delphinium Blue

About 2 years ago I started dyeing yarn.  When I started, I had no idea what I was doing.  It was an experiment.  Now, through trial and error, I have developed the way I usually dye yarn.  There are tons on different ways to hand dye.  To me, there is no real right way to do it.  You can experiment with what works best for you until you reach your desired results.

I dye with both permanent acid dyes and also food coloring.  Both are fun.

Today I am dip dyeing Nudis Sock with Wilton Delphinium Blue.  Dip dyeing is one of my favorite methods.  You get lusciously dark dye on one side and then very light colored on the other end of the skein.  When I dip dye, I do not presoak my yarn.  I just prefer to do it with dry yarn because I think it yields more dramatic results.

Materials needed:
• 2 skeins of Nudis Sock yarn
• Wilton Delphinium Blue food coloring
• Plastic knife or spoon
• White vinegar
• Pot and strainer that will only be used for yarn dyeing (not food)
• Dawn Dish Detergent

I am using 2 skeins of Nudis Sock.  This yarn is 80% Superwash Merino Wool & 20% Nylon.  Each skein is 50 grams and is about 191 yards long.  I am going to dye each skein in the same way so that I end up with 2 skeins that look the same in the end.

Start with a pot filled with 8 cups of water and 1/4 cup white vinegar.  Use a pot that will only be used for dyeing yarn and not for cooking food.  I bought mine at Target.  It is just like this one and came with a steamer basket too and I use that part for hand painted yarns (tutorials for that to come).  Heat the water on high until just before it boils.

Today I am using Wilton Delphinium Blue for my dye. 


I scooped out a good amount onto a plastic knife.  I'd say about 1.5 teaspoons.


Then swirl the knife into the hot water until all of the dye gets mixed into the water.





Now we will start to dip dye.  I held the two open skeins by the tops and slowly started to dip them into the dye pot.


Dip in a slow up and down motion.


And each time you dip, dip a little bit more yarn into the dye pot.


Keep going until almost the entire skein is dipped.


Once you have almost dipped the entire skein, just go ahead and put the whole skein into the pot.



Put a lid on your pot.  Turn the heat down so that it is at a low simmer.  And simmer for 30 minutes.


At the end of the 30 minutes, the yarn should have absorbed all of the dye and the water in your pot should have no color or almost no color at all.  If there is still color in your water, add about 1/4 cup more white vinegar and let it simmer for another 30 minutes.  If you water has no color, turn the heat off and remove the lid.


You can let the yarn fully cool in your pot and or you can dump it into a strainer over your sink (use a strainer that will only be used for dyeing and not food).


Run hot water over the yarn.


Rub a little bit of Dawn in your hands and then put your hands under the water so that the Dawn gently rinses onto your yarn.


Rinse the yarn until all of the soap is gone.  Then gently ring out the yarn.


You can see the pretty color gradients in the above picture from dip dyeing.

Then I let my yarn air dry on a clothes drying rack.


This is the top portion of the skein- the part that I put in the dye pot last.

This is the middle portion of the skein.


This is the bottom portion of the skein- the part that went in the dye pot first.


After the skeins are dried, this is what they looked like.  I love how they turned out and can't wait to use them.  I am going to use the yarn to make mittens :)

Skein and Hook Copyright © 2014

The pattern and photographs contained in this document are the property of Skein and Hook.  This pattern is available for personal use only.  This pattern may be printed for your personal use only.  You may not in any form copy, redistribute, sell, or represent this pattern or photos as your own.  

Please do not copy this post and claim it as your own.  Please do not republish photos from this post and claim them as your own.  

You are welcomed to sell the items that you make from this pattern- please just credit me as the designer with a link to this post.


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